Being a hiking and mountains lover, I couldn't help but wish to reach the highest peak in Romania. I planned this hike in the middle of summer, hoping to escape the heat wave in the capital of the country. It wasn't quite like that, it was quite warm at over 2000 meters high, but even so, I enjoyed the nature, dreamy landscapes and fresh air.
There are several marked routes to reach the top of Moldoveanu, but in this article I will tell you about the one through Valea Rea (Evil Valley), being the only one I've done and as far as I know, it is the shortest. Shorter, but not necessarily easier. Believe me, it is called Valea Rea for a good reason :).
ABOUT THE HIKE THROUGH THE EVIL VALLEY (VALEA REA) TO THE MOLDOVEANU PEAK
To reach the entrance of the hiking trail, you have to cross a forest road of about 40km. The only way to cross this forest road is by car (rented one or personal). The easiest to find is if you put Burnei's sheepfold as your destination on Sat Nav. As a point of reference, you must follow the course of the river Doamnei. The road is also accessible for smaller cars, not necessarily SUVs and there is enough space to park near the sheepfold, but you must arm yourself with patience because you will cover 40 km in approximately one and a half to two hours.
When planning this route, you need to consider the weather conditions. It is best that rain is not on forecast because it is an open field and in case of thunder storm it is very dangerous. It is preferable to not be snow on the ground, because there are some quite dangerous parts near the top and not to have rained much before, in some places being swampy areas, which can be flooded. If you decide to go in the summer, I recommend that you take enough water with you. The only source of water is in the area of the glacier lake.
The route, as I said above, starts from Burnei's Sheepfold (Stana lui Burnei), marked with a red triangle. Although it is considered the shortest route to the top, it is not at all physically easy, the level difference from the sheepfold to the top being over 1100 m, on a distance of about 10km.
In the first part of the hike, up to the glacial lake, you can admire a lot of small waterfalls, being the perfect "excuse" to take breaks from the difficult ascent. It is also the only part of the route that is a little more wooded and you don't have to go in direct sunlight.
Therefore, being a predominantly alpine route, don't forget the sun protection and cover your head so you don't risk sunstroke, if you choose to come here in the summer.
We leave the forest behind and head towards the alpine area. Below, a view of the valley. View of the valley. Hand up if you see the sheepfold :)
Once reaching the glacial caldera, the landscape changes a little. We have a break from the rather steep climb, this being a portion that is much easier to walk than the Evil Valley, at least in the first part. The difficult climb starts at the top of the caldera, the section to Portita Vistei being the hardest of the whole route.
For many years, the Negoiu Peak was initially considered the highest peak in Romania. Later it was discovered that Moldoveanu Peak, which was called Vistea Mare, has a height of 2544m, being 9m higher than Negoiu. However, the highest peak in the Carpathian Mountains is not even in Romania, but in Slovakia. It is the Gerlachosvsky Peak, which measures 2655 meters.
At the top of the glacier caldera is the triangular lake, which you can admire the best after climbing a little bit. The lake is also called Iezerul Moldoveanului, it is a glacial lake with three springs and is a protected reserve.
Once you reach the ridge, the route becomes easier in terms of physical demand. The climb is no longer as demanding, and the view is spectacular.
The most dangerous part is near the top. Or maybe only I perceived it as dangerous because I'm afraid of heights. Fortunately, it is the only area on the whole route where you are more exposed, otherwise the route is only physically demanding and not dangerous.
Once you reach the top, the view is absolutely spectacular and you have a 360 panorama of the Fagaras Mountains. We were lucky that it was not crowded and we were able to enjoy the view and the peace. The weather was also perfect, the sky was clear and we could admire the Fagaras Mountains in all their splendor.
To return, we chose the same route. In total, I did the entire round trip in about 10 hours, including breaks.
It is a very demanding hike, but not dangerous. I believe that, if certain rules are respected, such as the ones I mentioned in this article (to take into account the weather, to have enough water and food with you, etc.), if there is a physical condition and there are no medical problems, this hike can be done by anyone.
In the future, I plan to do the hike to Moldoveanu that starts from Balea Lake, which is longer and which most hikers choose to do in two days.
WHERE TO STAY NEAR THE ROUTE TO THE MOLDOVEANU PEAK:
As accommodation options, there are several guesthouses near the villages of Slatina and Nucsoara. You can also camp in the clearings next to the river, or up at the Portita Vista shelter. I would not recommend camping near the sheepfold, because there were signs with "beware of bears". For those who ask if it is possible to book accommodation at Burnei's Shipfold, the answer is no, it is not possible. During the time I was there, there was absolutely no one there, not even the shepherds, it is probably only used a few days a year.
Below, I leave two accommodation options in Nucsoara:
- Casa cu Cerdac the luxury & traditional house of Nucsoara - is an accommodation unit decorated and furnished in traditional style, which is fully rented and can accommodate up to 9 people in 4 bedrooms. It has all the facilities of a normal house;
- Cer de munte - is a bungalow-type accommodation unit, with small rooms, parking and internet included in the booking price.
If you have questions about this hike, you can leave them in the comments and if you liked this article, you can give it a share.
Read also about the hike in Macin, a much easier hike, which can be completed by both children and adults, to Culmea Pricopanului or about one of the most difficult hikes in Romania, in Piatra Craiului. Other ideas for routes from Romania: to Moara Dracului Waterfall, Bicajel's Gorge or Scropoasa Lake.
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